Perhaps the most famous of American writers, Samuel Langhorne Clemens navigated the Transit Route over 150 years ago! Better know as Mark Twain, the author was in Nicaragua for a few days and wrote about his passage through the country in his book Travels with Mr. Brown. The story of Mark Twain in Nicaragua is […]
Perhaps my one favorite place in Managua was La Casa de los Mejia Godoy. This unique establishment was the best place to visit and understand the revolutionary mood of Nicaraguan people. La Casa de los Mejia Godoy was a restaurant bar that had live music on weekends. The food was good, the prices were fair, […]
Today, July 19, 2019, Nicaragua celebrated another year as a “free” country. The fascist government of Anastasio Somoza fell in 1979 after a bloody civil war. So today marks the 40th anniversary of the revolution. The 19th of July is probably the most important historical holiday and celebration in Nicaragua. As a matter of fact, […]
157 years ago, Central America was struggling to build its future. After 300 years under Spanish Rule, it had gained its independence by accident, when “New Spain” declared its freedom from Spain. New Spain (Mexico) was a vast territory that went as far south as the border between Costa Rica and Panama. To the north, […]
Hurricane Otto update for Thursday, November 24th. Tropical storm conditions expected any minute along the Caribbean Coast of Nicaragua and Costa Rica.
Hurrican Otto, a unique and rare meteorology event is about to unfold along the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica and Nicaragua. In over 150 years of records, there has never been a Hurricane to make a direct hit in this area.
Few Nicaraguans have ever been to the Caribbean Coast. Thus, have no real clue of what the reality is there. I decided to go out exploring the Caribbean Coast of Nicaragua and see for myself what it is all about.
Perhaps the most famous of American writers, Samuel Langhorne Clemens navigated the Transit Route over 150 years ago! Better know as Mark Twain, the author was in Nicaragua for a few days and wrote about his passage through the country in his book Travels with Mr. Brown. The story of Mark Twain in Nicaragua is not told often enough. It goes back to a time when it was safer to travel from San Francisco to New York through Nicaragua than across the continental United States!
As everyone knows, Mark Twain was fascinated with rivers. His most famous book, the adventures of Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn takes place on the riverbanks of the Mississippi River. Mark Twain was a traveler by nature, and he was one of the first adventure travelers to write about his experiences while traveling to far away places. Clemens himself was a river pilot, who navigated up and down the Mississippi River. In time, he retired and took to writing and holding conferences about his travels through the World. Together with John Lloyd Stevens and Frederick Catherwood, Mark Twain is one of the original adventure travelers of the world!
The Clear waters at San Juan del Sur offer some of the best diving conditions in the Pacific Coast of Nicaragua
Samuel Clemens took up a job offer in the East Coast. Thus, he as forced to travel from San Francisco to New York. Mark Twain had already taken the long, dangerous overland route across the Wild West. So he decided upon hiring passage with the Transit Company out of San Francisco, via Nicaragua and on to New York City. The trip included sailing south of San Francisco to the Port of San Juan del Sur in Nicaragua. There a short 20-mile stagecoach trip took him across the Rivas Isthmus to Lake Nicaragua. His travels would take him across the lake to the River Port of San Carlos. This is where the lake empties out to the Caribbean via the San Juan River.[themify_hr color=”light-gray” width=”1″ border_width=”1″]
View of Ometepe Island from the ferry to San Jorge
Imagine the expression on Mark Twains face when he saw the massive volcanoes of the Ometepe Island! Never had he seen such a sight while navigating the Mississippi River! The 120-mile ride down the San Juan River mesmerized him. Thick jungle canopy on both sides were hostile to human communities. Howler monkeys would howl signs of warning to the steamships sailing up and down the river. A short stop was made at the community of El Castillo. This was a technical stop to unload passengers and cargo to lighten the ship. A tough maneuver around a set of river rapids was easier and safer with a light ship. I can imagine the empathy that Samuel Clemens felt with the ships pilot as he maneuvered his ship through these tricky waters in front of El Castillo![themify_hr color=”light-gray” width=”1″ border_width=”1″]
Fishing is Outstanding at the Rio San Juan in the area around el Castillo and Boca de Sabalos.
Eventually, he arrived at the bustling port city of Greytown on the Caribbean Coast. Here the river steamboat would turn around and get ready for another trip up the river with the passengers who had just arrived from New York. For Clemens, it was time to take a last glimpse at the tropical jungles of Central America before sailing north on his steamship bound to the northeast. Mark Twain wrote about this experience. If you want to know more about Mark Twain in Nicaragua, read his book titled, Travels with Mr. Brown.
La Casa de Los Mejia Godoy, once a unique cultural center in Managua
Perhaps my one favorite place in Managua was La Casa de los Mejia Godoy. This unique establishment was the best place to visit and understand the revolutionary mood of Nicaraguan people. La Casa de los Mejia Godoy was a restaurant bar that had live music on weekends. The food was good, the prices were fair, and the music was superb! The owners, Carlos and Luis Enrique Mejia Godoy are some of the most popular singers and authors of Nicaraguan music alive. Carlos is a living legend, who thrives on stage when he sings Nicaraguan testimonial songs. Most of the songs are his, he is the author. He sings of the trials and tribulations of Nicaraguan people and their efforts to rid themselves of Anastasio Somoza, a dictator whose family had run Nicaragua for several decades.[themify_hr color=”light-gray” width=”1″ border_width=”1″]
During one of my trips to Managua a few years ago, I visited La Casa de Los Mejia Godoy. It was across the street from the Crown Plaza Managua Hotel and Convention Center. I made a reservation, and took a couple of Nica friends with me. I must say that I got goosebumps listening to Carlos Mejia Godoy sing about the Nica Revolution. The passion, the excitement, made me understand the roots of modern Nicaragua much better. Despite the fact that I grew up in Mexico and live in Honduras, I would have never fully understood Nicaragua without this visit.
Back Again to La Casa de los Mejia Godoy!
A few years after my first visit, I ran into a couple of friends from Honduras who were in Managua. They were there for the Nicaragua trade show, and I almost twisted their arms to accompany me. Sonia Regalado from MesoAmerica Travel in San Pedro Sula and Gilberto Arita of Mayan Caribbean Tours, also from San Pedro Sula was reluctant to accompany us. He insisted he was capitalist to the bone and had no interest in listening to revolutionary songs. He slowly changed his mind and got really excited when Carlos Mejia Godoy sang Quincho Barrilete. This song won an OTI Award and was extremely popular with kids throughout Central America. By the time the show finished he was so happy we went, that he decided to add a visit to offer the experience to the tourists he took to Nicaragua.
It is with deep regret that I found out that La Casa de los Mejia Godoy closed its doors in June 2018. The crisis that took place after the April 2018 protests took a huge toll on many businesses that relied on Tourists. In addition, it seems like the Mejia Godoy brothers decided to move to Miami, in an auto-imposed exile to protest the current government of Nicaragua. You see, they are Sandinistas to the bone, but that does not mean the agree with the current administration.
A unique house of Nicaragua Culture has closed its doors
In the end, Nicaragua is the one that has lost most. This was a house of culture. It will be difficult to replicate the experience that I had while visiting La Casa de los Mejia Godoy. Today, I got a picture of what was once the site of this unique business. I was heartbroken for Nicaragua and thankful that I had an opportunity to live an experience there.[themify_hr color=”light-gray” width=”1″ border_width=”1″]
Today, July 19, 2019, Nicaragua celebrated another year as a “free” country. The fascist government of Anastasio Somoza fell in 1979 after a bloody civil war. So today marks the 40th anniversary of the revolution. The 19th of July is probably the most important historical holiday and celebration in Nicaragua. As a matter of fact, I dare say that there is more excitement and political fervor that on September 15th when Nicaragua celebrates its independence!
Nicaraguans celebrating their Revolution
Despite the social unrest that shook Nicaragua during the last year, the reality is that most Nicaraguans profess to be Sandinistas. It is a political attitude that runs in their blood. All Nicaragua Citizens under the age of 40 are proud of the revolutionary heritage they have. Most of those that are 60 or older fought with the Sandinista Revolutionary Army to free Nicaragua from Somoza. The fact is that the Sandinista Revolution Celebration unites Nicaraguans of all ages and social status.
This year was no different, and Managua had its streets literally bursting with Nica citizens celebrating. Of course, every other important city and town in Nicaragua also had their own Sandinista Revolution Celebration. But the main event is always in Managua, the Capital city and the center of politics in the country. The people are not celebrating a political party or a specific government. They are celebrating a new way of life, where there is more opportunities for all citizens of Nicaragua. They are celebrating their victory over a foreign country that was behind Somoza till the end.
Ironically, Sandino never fought in the Revolution. He had been an active guerrilla warrior against the USA invading army and the Somoza Regime. Sandino was murdered by the Somoza Regime but always served as an inspiration to follow. Happy Sandinista Revolution Celebration to all Nicaragua!
157 years ago, Central America was struggling to build its future. After 300 years under Spanish Rule, it had gained its independence by accident, when “New Spain” declared its freedom from Spain. New Spain (Mexico) was a vast territory that went as far south as the border between Costa Rica and Panama. To the north, it extended well into South Western United States. California, Nevada, New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado and Texas were all part of that territory. The United States, with its “Manifest Destiny” had closed a deal at gunpoint with Mexico. They had “bought” a vast territory and expanded their country to the Pacific Coast.
5 of the original 7 Central American Provinces decided to try their luck on their own, thus seceding from Mexico. This was before Mexico had lost its northern territories to the United States. But Central America struggled between two opposed visions. One called for a Central American Federation; the other for five independent states. To top it all off, the United States was keen to intervene in the region to build a canal across the narrow Isthmus.
At around the same time, the California Gold Rush was in full swing. Thousands of Americans were looking to find a route from the East Coast and the Mid West to California. This was a dangerous expedition. There were no railroads, and the trails all led through Native American Indian territories. There was a need for an alternate route that was faster and above all, safer.
Boat Trip on the Indian River, passing by the historic 160 year old Transit Company dredge.
One of the great US Entrepreneurs of the time, Cornelius Vanderbilt jumped on the opportunity and formed the Transit Company. The purpose of the company was to provide safe passage between the East Coast of the US and California. The route was set up to travel south to the Port of Graytown, on the Caribbean Coast of Nicaragua. There, passengers would board a steam ship and sail 200 km (120 miles) up the San Juan River in Nicaragua to Lake Nicaragua. After navigating across the lake, they would disembark at the lake port of La Virgen in the Rivas Isthmus. Finally a short 20 mile stagecoach ride would get them to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific Ocean. From there, they would board a ship and travel north to California.[themify_hr border_width=”1″ width=”1″ color=”light-gray”]
The trip was faster, and much safer than taking the trails across the USA. It was also a profitable operation for Vanderbilt. With a price ticket of 200 dollars per person, and over 3000 passengers a month to transport, it was worth a pretty sum! (About 7 million dollars a year revenue!). The Transit Company operated several steamships, stage coaches and ocean going vessels. The company created a booming economy in Graytown on the Caribbean Coast. San Juan del Sur on the Pacific Ocean also saw a boom in their economy.
Vanderbilt’s profitable operation was taken over by force by another American individual: William Walker. Walker was a short, ambitious young man from Nashville, Tennessee. who had decided to conquer Central America. He began his efforts in Nicaragua, and became president of that country. His Megalomaniac ego pushed him to seek taking over the rest of Central America. For this venture, he needed some serious funding. The source would be no less than the Transit Company. So as president of Nicaragua, he took over the company from Vanderbilt!
Cornelius Vanderbilt was not a good enemy to have. He convinced the government of Costa Rica to attack Nicaragua and overthrow his fellow American citizen. Honduras followed suit, and sooner than later, Walker ran away from of Nicaragua. Before leaving Granada, he burnt the city to the ground. Then escaped on one of the steamships he had commandeered from Vanderbilt.
This was a costly venture for Nicaragua. When Costa Rica invaded Nicaragua to chase Walker, they settled an old dispute with their neighbor. The Province of Guanacaste had long been a dispute between both countries. Costa Rica took advantage and settled the question by forcing Nicaragua to sign the Jerez – Canas Treaty. In the treaty, Nicaragua cedes Guanacaste, but makes sure to keep full sovereignty of the San Juan River. The main reason for this interest in a century old dream to build a trans isthmus canal through Nicaragua. The route would follow the San Juan River from the Caribbean up to Lake Nicaragua. Then navigate across the Lake Cocibolca or Nicaragua.
Walker was “saved” by a US Navy ship in Graytown. He made if back safe and sound to the United States, but it would not be long before he was back in Central America. This time he went to Honduras, where his luck finally ran out. After attacking and taking the port city of Trujillo he was arrested, tried, and put before a firing squad. You can find his tomb in the old cemetery in Trujillo, Honduras.
El Castillo de la Inmaculada Concepcion de Maria in El Castillo
There is a nice museum that offers great images and info on the Transit Company. It is in the town of El Castillo, right on the San Juan River. The museum is in the remains of the historic fortress of Immaculate Conception of Mary. If you are interested in this historical site, you should certainly visit it! There are several different hotels in El Castillo. I enjoy visiting this friendly community often.
The eye of Hurricane Otto is just offshore Nicaragua. It will come ashore shortly in the vicinity of Punta Gorda. This is roughly between Bluefields and Greytown. This area is a remote and has a low populated, which is good news. Yet communities such as Ban Ku Kuk, Monkey Point and Corn River are near and could even feel the eyewall of Hurricane Otto.
Currently there is heavy rain coming down in Bluefields. There are with a sustained winds of about 15 miles an hour from the north northeast. There is no marine and pluvial navigation along the San Juan River and Lake Nicaragua until further notice.
The area around El Castillo and Boca de Sabalo received a fair amount of rain overnight. The mighty San Juan River had already increased its flow by over two feet in that area as of 7:00 am Nicaragua time. These communities are expecting the river to jump its banks by the time the storm is over. The good news is that this area is not prown to fast running water flash floods.
The Lake Nicaragua basin is huge, and much of the water that will fall from the storm will end up in the lake. As a result, the lake will increase its water level by several feet. It will take several weeks to get back to its normal height as it drains out the San Juan River.
The storm is moving at an approximate speed of 9 miles per hour (15 km per hour). If it continues at that speed it should take it between 8 and 10 hours to traverse overland to Lake Nicaragua. It will do so in the vicinity of San Carlos, the capital of Rio San Juan. From there is will continue towards the west southwest, following the southern shore of Lake Cocibolca. This is just south of the Solentiname Islands.
It should be coming offshore into the Pacific just south of the Costa Rica – Nicaragua. The forecast calls for it to still be a tropical storm. If so, it will keep its name in this different hurricane basin. A weekend storm is good news as far as wind speed will cause less damage. But is not not necessarily mean that there will be less rain.
There is one possible bright side to Hurricane Otto. A sustained high volume of water flowing down the San Juan River could make it easier for larger fish to swim up and down the river from the Caribbean Sea. Just recently, I heard news of some shark sightings near Boca de Sabalos. This means that sharks are migrating between the Caribbean and Lake Nicaragua!
It is a matter of a few hours before the brunt of the storm. Strong winds are already reported along the coast especially in San Juan de Nicaragua. This is to the south of where the eye will come ashore. Wind gusts are also present in Bluefields to the north.
Hurrican Otto, a unique and rare meteorology event is about to unfold along the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica and Nicaragua. In over 150 years of records, there has never been a Hurricane to make a direct hit in this area. As a matter of fact, this is the first direct hurricane on record to slam into the coast of Costa Rica. It is also the furthest south hurricane to hit Nicaragua.
According to forecast issued by the National Hurricane Center, the center of the storm will come ashore near the Rio San Juan Delta. This is a low lying area with sandbars and swamps. The area is vulnerable to storm surge. A three or four foot surge will flood entire coastal towns, such as Greytown.
I had the opportunity to be in San Juan del Norte in late November, 2014, during a passing cold front. It rained cats and dogs, and that was enough to leave half of the town flooded. The rain, together with the storm surge will not be a nice scene. The mighty San Juan River will most likely increase its flow due to the rain. This will create a situation where the river will jump its banks when the sea level rises due to the storm surge.
If you are heading to San Juan de Nicaragua, or the Rio San Juan area, consider rescheduling your visit. The area around El Castillo and Boca de Sabalos should fare a lot better. However, there will be some serious rain and tropical storm force winds will blow. From what I can see in the forecast, the eye of the storm will follow the San Juan River. Then it will go across Lake Nicaragua and then out to the Pacific, somewhere just due south of San Juan del Sur.
If forecasts come true, Hurricane Otto will be the first Hurricane in the Eastern Pacific basin to keep its name given to it in the Atlantic Basin. Otto will cause severe rains throughout Costa Rica, Nicaragua and even parts of Honduras. There is no doubt that the most significant threat to Nicaragua will be the rain.
Hurricane Otto will make landfall early tomorrow. Yet the strong rain and wind will begin to affect the coast as early as this evening. It is imperative that you take this into consideration. Make sure you find a safe spot to ride the storm, stay away from the coast and far from the river banks. Expect power outages and telephone service interruptions. Internet service should also be an issue.
Take this as advice from a hurricane veteran. I was in Cancun, Mexico in 1988 when Hurricane Gilbert came ashore as a category 5 storm. I was also in San Pedro Sula, Honduras in 1998, when Hurricane Mitch struck Honduras. Above all, keep safe and hunker down! Best of luck!
If there is one topic that comes up during any conversation in Nicaragua, it is the Nicaragua Inter-Oceanic Canal. Half the population believes in this dream, the other half thinks it never will happen. This is a centuries old dream, and most Nica’s would love to see it happen. However, others oppose it with passion!
Few Nicaraguans have ever been to the Caribbean Coast. Thus, most have no real clue of what the reality is there. I decided to go out exploring the Caribbean Coast of Nicaragua and see for myself what the reality is all about. It’s easy to understand why so few Nica’s have never gone out this way. For one, it is hard to get to. The area that is earmarked for the Canal Project is south of Bluefields. This is the largest community in this part of Nicaragua.
Getting to Bluefields to Start Exploring the Caribbean Coast of Nicaragua
There are two ways to get to Bluefields. The first, and easiest is to take a flight with La Costena Airlines from Managua direct to Bluefields. Flying time? Just over an hour. The route is scenic, flying over the northern end of Lake Nicaragua, then across the grasslands of Chontales. You can see the agricultural frontier expanding into the forests of the RAAS as you are getting closer to Bluefields. The second alternative is to take a bus from Managua to El Rama, and then a boat down the Rio Escondido to Bluefields. This option will take a full day of travel.
I have traveled both alternatives. My suggestion is take the second option if you have the time. It is a matter of time before a road is open to Bluefields. When that happens the River Port at El Rama will die. This is an experience that you will soon not be able to enjoy.
Make sure you leave Managua as early as possible. The Trip to El Rama takes about 6 hours from Managua. Some travelers prefer to do the trip overnight, arriving in El Rama at around 3:30 a.m. This way, they can catch the first panga at 6:00 a.m. There are many different fast boats always ready for departure at El Rama. Boats leave whenever they are full, and this is an ongoing process. There is only one glitch: Navigating the Rio Escondido is a day light trip. This means that the last boats leave el Rama by 3:00 p.m. If you arrive afterwards, you will need to spend the night in El Rama. If you end up having to spend the night, Hotel Costa Verde and Hotel Rio Escondido are your best bets.
The boat terminal in Bluefields. Boats to El Rama arrive and depart from here!
The trip down the river will take you through jungle clad river banks. After almost 2 hours, you will find yourself in the Bay of Bluefields. This is a rather shallow bay that has restrictions to the size of vessels because it is depths. Because of this the actual port, called El Bluff, is actually at the entrance to the bay. The Panga trip from el Rama to Bluefields takes about 2 hours. The cost will be roughly $10 US dollars or its equivalent in cordobas.
As a port, El Bluff is actually quite limited, because there are no roads that lead to or from it! This means that all goods that arrive here must be transferred by smaller boats to Bluefields. Again, there is no highway from Bluefields to the rest of Nicaragua. As such, El Bluff is a small local port that is home to the largest fishing fleet in Nicaragua. If you on your way to the Corn Islands, take note that it is easier to catch a ride in the cargo boats that leave from El Bluff. Travel between Bluefields and El Bluff is quite easy, as there are always boats coming and going.
Meeting the Rama Kriol Autonomous Government
The Offices of the Rama Creole territorial government
Upon arrival to Bluefields, I needed to secure myself a room. There are many different hotels available in town. I had an appointment set up with the Rama Kriol Autonomous Government for the next morning. So after checking into the Hotel Caribbean Dream I set out to explore town. My mission was to find the exact location where my meeting was to take place the next day.
The meeting with the authorities at the Rama Kriol autonomous government was most interesting. You see, it turns out that about 1500 Rama Indians, and 2000 Kriol African Americans are the legal and rightful owners of a huge expanse of land that runs parallel to the Caribbean Coast. Their land goes from just south of Bluefields all the way to the border with Nicaragua along the San Juan River.
The different alternate routes for the Nicaragua Canal are all between Bluefields and Graytown. This means that the route will cut the Rama Kriol Territory in half! In general, the community is against the project. They are fighting a legal battle with the government of Nicaragua. But that is a different story…
The Route I Followed Exploring the Caribbean Coast of Nicaragua: From Bluefields to Monkey Point
They agreed to take me south, on a boat along the Caribbean Sea to the Community of Ban Ku Kuk. This community is just south of Monkey Point, the best location on the Caribbean Coast for a seaport. So after making the proper arrangements, we agreed to leave early the next morning. As a general rule, the surf tends to get rougher as the day progresses. This means that an early departure guarantees a smoother ride!
It was a beautiful morning in Bluefields. As the fog lifted over the Bay of Bluefields I boarded our speedboat. We went across the lagoon, into the Caribbean and due south. A dark blue sky and no surf at all, allowed us to make fast progress. We were in Ban Ku Kuk in less than 1 ½ hours! The current plan for the canal calls for the entrance to be south of Ban Ku Kuk, in the Punta Gorda area. The project includes a paved highway to Ban Ku Kuk as part of the infrastructure needed.
The beach at Ban Ku Kuk
Ban Ku Kuk is a small village on the coast. They do not even have a dock, so you must jump of the boat and get your feet wet to disembark! The community has no power, no telephone communication, and no medical facilities. It does have a small dilapidated school though. A land trail interconnects it with Monkey Point, due North. You can also follow another path to the south to mouth of Punta Gorda, where you will need a boat to cross the river.
One thing was clear to me: the Caribbean Coast of Nicaragua is not developed. There is little or no government presence in the area. The people living in this area, which could be a piece of paradise, have been on their own for centuries. The Rama Indians and Kriols that live here have maintained their basic subsistence throughout the years by living in harmony with nature. If the Canal is built, their world, as they have known it for generations will change forever.
The multi use community building at Ban Ku Kuk
I will not get into the discussion of whether the canal would be good for them or not. In the end it is up to them to decide. Change will be massive and irreversible if it does happen. It is hard to imagine any alternative to the lives of these people. The Caribbean Beaches are beautiful, and there are plenty of small islands and Cays along the coast, these do not boast the barrier reefs that are present in the Bay Islands of Honduras. Devolepment of the area via tourism is a far cry from today’s reality.
I am lucky that I had the chance to visit Monkey Point and Ban Ku Kuk before construction begins. Unfortunately, there is no real place to stay in either community. Ban Ku Kuk has a multi service community building that offers some extremely basic rooms. The facility does not have a fan, in building bathrooms and of course, electricity.
The dock at Monkey Point
Monkey Point has a bit more infrastructure, because there is a fishing facility there. They also have a small dock and a building used as a restaurant. Electric Power, needed to keep the freezers running for the fishery, means that the community has power during certain hours of the day. A small, basic hotel operates from time to time. But you never know if it will be open or closed. The cays nearby are pretty, but with a limited reef surrounding them. And although the beaches are nice, they are not spectacular.
Perhaps the canal could in a way help preserve some of the Rama Kriol territory, especially the area to the south, known as Indio Maiz Reserve. If you are really adventuresome, and are willing to spend some money to get to see this area, make sure you bring good camping equipment. Of course, credit cards and ATM machines are not useful items in this part of the world, so make sure you bring lots of cash.
Keep in mind that traveling on the Caribbean in a speed boat can get pretty rough. The entrance into the rivers mouths from the sea can be a harrowing and dangerous experience if the surf is up. You will need a good captain that is familiar with the area! Unless you are looking to interact with the Rama – Kriol people of Nicaragua, you are best sticking with a trip to the beautiful Corn Islands of Nicaragua.
Nicaragua’s civic calendar has its most important celebration on the 19 of July. You see, this is a holiday in remembrance of the Sandinista Revolution that toppled the Somoza Regime.
Anastasio Somoza was the third member of a family dynasty that had been in power in Nicaragua since 1936. Throughout this period, the family had ruled with an iron fist. They had also amassed a fortune making Somoza one of the richest men in Latin America. By the time the 1970’s came around, the cold war was in full swing. Central America was fertile ground for the communists. Thus the US bolstered their support in the region, creating an air force base in Honduras. Honduras was their most reliable USA ally in the region. Somoza in Nicaragua was also an important ally. After the 1972 earthquake in Nicaragua, discontent was on the rise. Somoza and his national guard responded with force to any manifestation.
Sandino, the National Hero stands proudly in the Central Park of Managua
The local population took inspiration from national hero, Augusto Sandino. Sandino was a Nicaragua national who fought against the US intervention in Nicaragua during the 1920s, and 1930s. Anastasio Somoza Sr. ordered the cold blooded assasination of Sandino. This took place after meeting with him at the presidential palace. Tales of Sandino took epic proportions after his death. These tales served as inspiration in the revolt against Somoza.
By 1979, it was evident to the USA that Somoza was not worth supporting. After loosing his support from the USA, he left the country on the 17th of July. After his departure, the revolutionary army marched into the last strong hold: Managua. A new government was set up, under the command of the revolutionary army. General Daniel Ortega assumed the lead role in the new government. Thus the 19th of July, Nicaragua celebrates its liberation from Somoza. This date is a second independence celebration for Nicaragua. In many ways, it is even more important than the independence day celebration that takes place on September 15!
The times that followed were even harder that the days of the revolution. For the United States, loosing Nicaragua was only second to the disastrous Bay of Pigs invasion to Cuba. Under the leadership of Ronald Reagan, the US launched an offensive against the Sandinistas. Using Honduras as a launch pad, the USA provided training and guns to the Contra’s. The result was a full blown civil war that was fierce and ruthless. For the USA, it was not about Nicaragua, it was about being superior to the USSR. Nicaragua was the unfortunate battleground between these two World powers.
Nicaragua today is a democratic country, with elections taking place every 5 years. The Sandinistas are back in power after losing to the Liberal Party for three consecutive elections.
Sandino, did not fight in this revolution, but functioned as a source of inspiration. To this day, Augusto Sandino is a inspires every Nica! Congratulations to Nicaragua on this day! He is also the most outstanding figure in Nicaragua History!
Two Sandinista revolutionaries that were born in Matagalpa, Carlos Fonseca and Tomas Borge
As for Somoza, after leaving Nicaragua he went into exile to Paraguay. There his fellow dictator, Hugo Stroesner welcomed him. Paraguayan revolutionaries staged an attack and murdered him. They blew up his bullet proof Mercedes Limosine with a Bazooka. That was the end of him!
There are not many live héroes that fought the Sandinista Revolution. In addition to Sandino, who was the inspiration, Carlos Fonseca and Tomas Borge are some of the best known heroes of this revolution. Fonseca was murdered by the National Guard, Borge died of natural causes a couple of years ago.
The Offices of the Rama Creole territorial government
The remote Caribbean coast of Nicaragua is home to the Rama Indians. This is a small ethnic group that lives in a territory between the Bay of Bluefields and the San Juan River. There are only about 3500 ethnic Rama’s left. Most of them live on a small cay in the middle of the shallow bay of Bluefields. The Rama Indians of Nicaragua coexist with the Creole population in the same area. They both use English as their mother tongue.
Together they own and govern a large piece of land known as the Rama Creole Territory. The territory includes all the land from the southern half of the Bay of Bluefields to the San Juan River. When this territory was titled to the community, there was little interest in it. Yet, the proposed Nicaragua Inter Oceanic Canal has changed perspectives. Today, the land is very valuable, as the Canal will have to cut through this territory at some point.
The Rama Indian Communities
Although the largest community is in Rama Cay, there are other important communities. Most of them are on the Coast. Monkey Point and Ban Ku Kuk are two examples. Others are right on rivers. Such is the case of Tik Tik Kanu, Corn River, and Indian River. Together, these six communities are the core of the Rama Indians in Nicaragua.
The only way to get to The Rama Creole territory is by boat. It is and is thus quite inaccessible. I had the opportunity to make a flash trip to the area, which I am happy to share! My starting point was Bluefields. There I met with the Rama Creol territorial government leaders. We planned our trip planned the day before. We agreed to meet at a dock at 6:00 a.m. for an early departure. When traveling in the ocean, the earlier you leave, the smoother your ride will be! We planned our trip to visit four rama communities: Ban Ku Kuk, Monkey Point, Tik Tik Kanu and Rama Cay. After fueling our “panga” we were ready to go! We had a glorious day at sea, clear skies, smooth sea with virtually no swells.
The Rama Communities on the Caribbean Coast
Kids at beach in Baan Ku Kuk Rama Indian Community
Our first stop, the community of Baan Ku Kuk, which translated means Eagle Wings. This is a small community right on the coast. A nice beach and a rolling hill where most of the homes are behind the beach. Although the beach is nice, there is nothing much to see. A nice set of cays is just off the coast. Roughly between this community and Monkey Point. These Cays offer great coral reefs to dive and snorkel. Unfortunately, there is nowhere to rent equipment here. A playful group of kids that were enjoying the beach met us upon arrival. One of them was using an old ice cooler top as a surf board! Amazing how poor kids in the middle of nowhere always find something to turn into a toy![themify_hr color=”light-gray” width=”1px”]
A view of the Caribbean
Next on our trip was Monkey Point. Despite much talk about a port facility here, the village is small. Development is almost null. A small fishing facility to refrigerate their fishing catch before they take it to the markets in Bluefields is the only modern facility here! A century ago there was an attempt to build a railroad and port here. Some old railroad wheels are all that is left of this effort. The rest of the steel was scrapped and used to build whatever they could. Monkey Point offers beautiful beaches, close access to reefs and outstanding views from high bluffs overlooking the Caribbean. But total lack of infrastructure is the main deterrent for development.[themify_hr color=”light-gray” width=”1px”]
Rama Cay, the largest Rama Indian Community in the World
Panga arriving at Rama Cay loaded with goods from the mainland.
Back in Bluefields Bay, the most interesting site was Rama Cay. This community was originally established in two small cays that were near to each other. Over the years, the space between the two cays was filled in and is now used as a soccer or baseball field. Today there is only one bigger cay. The Rama Indians are Christian. They were evangelized many years ago by the Moravian Church. Thus, the only religious temple on Rama Cay is the Moravian Church.
There are schools and facilities here. However, most of the agriculture and cattle raising take place back on the mainland. There are communal plots in land around the bay. There is not much do to or see in Rama Cay. Despite this, I wholeheartedly encourage a trip to the small island during your time in Bluefields. Don’t expect to spend more than two or three hours here. The pastor at the church is a good source of information. If need be, accommodations can be arranged at the communal center. Take care of your goods and documents though! There are members of the community that have a habit to get into other persons things. Keep your cash and jewelry with you at all times!
Concerns About Long Term Subsistence of the Rama Indians of Nicaragua
The Rama people are friendly. There is concern about their long term subsistence as an ethnic group. Their reduced size, and the encroachment into their territory are a big threat. The biggest threat, is without doubt, the construction of the Nicaragua Canal through their land.
Nicaragua has a variety of protected areas that are under the administration of the Ministry of Environment (Marena). They are administrated by the office of National Parks (SINAP for Sistema Nacional de Areas Protegidas) There are 71 protected areas in Nicaragua. The Cosiguina Peninsula was the first area to reach that status. This was back in 1958. It was given the status of Wildlife Refuge.
Since then, the national park system slowly grew into its current number of 71 protected areas. The largest of these areas are the Biosphere Reserves. Nicaragua boasts 3 of these reserves: the Bosawas Biosphere Reserve located in the RAAN (North Atlantic Autonomous Region); the Indio Maiz Biosphere Reserve in the RAAS (South Atlantic Autonomous Region) and the department of Rio San Juan. Last but not least, and definitely the new kid in the block, the Ometepe Biosphere Reserve. The Ometepe Biosphere Reserve was established in 201o. The whole Island of Ometepe is part of this reserve.
The National Park System has several different titles to the areas. This indicates the specific protected status. The status includes Biosphere Reserves, Nature Reserves, National Parks, National Monuments, Nature Reserve and Wildlife Refuge.
Tour bus Designed for the El Mombacho Volcano Tour.
The most visited protected areas in Nicaragua are the Parque Nacional Volcan de Masaya. It is halfways between Managua and Granada. Therefore only 20 km (12 miles) from either of these cities. The other area with a high visitation is the Mombacho National Park. This is very close to Granada and easily within 90 minutes from Managua. Both of these have an extensive trail system and professional guides to give you a tour of the area.
Most of Nicaragua’s protected land is in the Caribbean side of the country; however there are also several outstanding protected areas within the northern central area of the country, which is the most mountainous region of Nicaragua.
